
3. Remove all debris and newspaper from inside the bulwark.
4. Carefully clean old caulking material off of the hull where the flanges seated on the gel coat.
5. Buff the inside of the bulwark so the area around the hawse hole is clean. This will help you when you buff the whole bulwark later.

6. **Optional** Spray your choice of long acting bug killer into the open cavity.

7. Stuff fiberglass insulation through the hawse hole as far as you can in each direction. This will aid in heat retention in cold climates, keep the boat cabin cooler in the tropics and help prevent condensation and mildew.

8. Blue tape a large area over and around hawse hole. Cut the tape out of the opening. Insert the hawse pipe and cut the blue tape around the outside of the flange.

9. Clean the hawse pipes. My pipes were chrome plated bronze and the chrome was severely pitted and tarnished. I choose to polish off all of the chrome. I did this using a flap wheel sander on a high speed hand grinder. I also used a wire brush to clean the old caulking from the backside of the flanges. I tried an assortment of other abrasive pads to find the right mix. It is much better to use something less abrasive and take more time than to use a coarse material and then have deep scratches to buff out of the bronze. I used a cotton wheel and jewelers rouge to polish the flanges and then Flitz (TM) to buff to a high gloss. The final step was to wash them with a degreaser, dry them and spray on several coats of lacquer to help slow down the tarnishing process.
10. Replacing the hawse pipes is several steps in and of itself.
a. Place a liberal amount of 3M 5200 adhesive on the backside of the flange and install it on the outside of the hull through the hawse hole. Secure it with correctly sized new fasteners.
b. Reach through the hawse hole from the opposite side of the bulwark and apply a liberal amount of 5200 around the flange.

c. I then inserted a piece of thick walled vinyl discharge hose that was large enough to snugly fit around the hawse pipe flange inside the bulwark.
d. Repeat step "a" above with the remaining flange. Make sure the vinyl hose also goes around this flange.
This is where it gets a little messy
e. Fill the area between the flanges on all sides with 5200. (I used a half of a box of large vinyl gloves for this process.) Use an abundance of 5200 for this process and force it up, around, and into all of the spaces between the discharge hose and the flanges.

f. Use lots of mineral spirits and disposable towels to clean the excess 5200 off of the nicely polished bronze flanges. Be sure to clean the area around the outside so it does not pull and tear when you remove the blue tape. Give it some time as the 5200 will want to drip off the upper surface. Wait several minutes until the 5200 starts to tack up and then force some more into the upper surface. Keep cleaning the residue off the polished bronze back to the interior edge. You can put some mineral spirit on the glove and smooth out the final coat of 5200.
g. Give the flanges several more coats of spray lacquer.

h. Wait an hour or two and then pull the blue tape from around the flanges on both side and you are done.
We are quite happy with the results and look of the polished bronze. I was able to do two sets of flanges in one day including time to polish the flanges. Only time will tell on how well these hold up to the tarnish factor but I have a high degree of confidence in the ability for this process to create a water tight, long lasting, flexible seal for the hawse pipes. We can live with the tarnish if they keep the water out and require low maintenance. Please send us your comments, questions and suggestions.

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